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En Primeur Bordeaux 2008 - A vintage ripe with promise

The Bordeaux 2008 En Primeur campaign is now closed and no more orders can be placed.

When it comes to Bordeaux, buying the wines ‘en primeur’ (or pre-release) is often the best way to secure the top wines of the vintage. After tasting hundreds of barrel samples, our expert Bordeaux buyer, Ken Mackay MW, has purchased a selection of the best value wines of 2008, stretching from petits châteaux right up to the esteemed Grands Cru Classé. 2008 was a low-yielding vintage, which has produced some deliciously concentrated reds, whites and sweet wines, with ripe fruit balanced by a lovely fresh acidity.


Prices start from only £42 per case of 6.
To place an order, call 0845 450 1592 (Monday to Friday 8.30am to 5.30pm) or e-mail: waitrosewinedirect@laywheeler.com
Orders must be for a minimum of one case (6x75cl bottles, unless otherwise stated). Last orders by 30th June 2009

Vintage Summary
Vintage Conditions
The Wines
How to Order
Red Wines - The Left Bank
Red Wines - The Right Bank
Dry Whites
Sweet Whites - Sauternes
How our En Primeur service works
Back to shopping
More buying guides

Vintage Summary

‘Everybody will tell you that this was a vintage saved by an Indian summer, but in fact it was saved by a low crop’ (Alexander Thienpont, Vieux Château Certan – whose yields were down 30% on 2007)

The exceptional 2005 aside, this is most likely the best vintage for reds in Bordeaux since 2001. The best wines are deliciously concentrated, with ripe fruit and fine-textured tannins balanced by a lovely fresh acidity. The factors that contributed to the success of the harvest were low yields in the vineyard (due to poor fruit-set and frost damage early in the season), leading to concentrated berries; and a dry, sunny September with cool nights which ripened the bunches well, yet also preserved excellent levels of refreshing acidity.

Ultimately, it was the small size of the crop that allowed such marvellous ripening and high quality. The lowest yields of all were in Sauternes (most with volumes at least 50% down), where nobody achieved more than 15hl/ha, most had less than 10hl/ha, and some had as low as 3hl/ha. Next hardest hit were the white wines, where quantities were often 40% or more down. Overall, this is the lowest crop in Bordeaux since the Great Frost of 1991.

Although the quality amongst the top châteaux is generally high, there are some high-profile disappointments this year amongst the First and Second Growths (such as Montrose, Margaux and Haut-Brion). Unlike many merchants, Waitrose are not committed to purchasing any underperforming wines to maintain allocations, or indeed to releasing an en primeur offer. Therefore the length of our Bordeaux en primeur offer varies from year to year, depending on the strength of the vintage and the value of the wines. The wines we select are always the personal selection of our buying team and all represent superior quality within their appellation.

After the generally excessive and speculative pricing of 2005, 2006 and 2007, we have seen a return to much more modest pricing by the châteaux. After much lobbying by the trade, the message seems to have got through and the wines have been released at prices substantially below those of the last 3 vintages (prices are 20-60% lower than 2007). These wines therefore represent great value in comparison to 2007, 2006 and 2005.

Ken Mackay MW, Bordeaux Buyer

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Vintage Conditions

Frost damage early in the spring and damp weather at flowering in early June reduced fruit-set and lowered yields from the outset. July and August were relatively cool and careful canopy management (de-leafing and crop thinning) was crucial in order to keep the leaf canopy sufficiently open and to keep the grapes healthy. Thankfully, conditions improved with a glorious autumn spell of weather: the 2nd half of September was sunny and dry, which allowed the grapes to ripen well and ensured a very clean harvest with little rot. The dry conditions at the end of the growing season helped to dehydrate the grapes and to concentrate their flavour; and the cool nights throughout the ripening period ensured that excellent levels of acidity were preserved in the concentrated grapes. Overall, this was a slow ripening year, with a late harvest (about 10 days behind 2007). The result is ripe, concentrated wines with lively acidity.

The Wines

Red Wines
There is substantial variation, but some excellent wines have been made, with the best wines showing a rich concentration of ripe fruit, counterbalanced by fresh, clean acidity. Overall, the wines are significantly fuller and riper than the 2007s. It is difficult to generalise too much by commune, as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon were both successful this year, but the Right Bank in general is more consistent than the Left – with many delicious wines from Fronsac, St Emilion and Pomerol. On the Left Bank the wines are slightly more patchy, but great wines have been made in all areas. Margaux is the most inconsistent of the major communes (with notable exceptions being d’Angludet; Rauzan Segla and Cantenac Brown) and Pauillac the best across the board (all the Pauillac Cru Classé are on good form, with Pontet-Canet, Haut-Batailley, Lynch-Bages and Pichon-Lalande being some of the stand-outs). Overall, the wine style bears a certain similarity to the 1988 vintage, but with a bit more ripeness and weight.

Dry White Wines
Another good vintage after 2007. Some stunning whites have been made, from very low yields in the vineyard. The wines are concentrated with great acidity and are generally slightly richer and weightier than the 2007s. Stocks are very limited.

Sweet White Wines
Sauternes had a similarly tiny vintage (volumes down up to 60%), but the quality was exceptional. These are wines of great finesse, which are stylistically similar to the excellent 2007s, with modest alcohol, high sweetness and high acidity.

The great sweet white wines of Bordeaux come from the region of Sauternes, where Semillon, Sauvignon and Muscadelle grapes are left on the vine late in the season, in the hope that ‘noble rot’ (or Botrytis cinerea) will develop. Noble rot does not damage the grapes, but dehydrates them from the outside, concentrating the sugar and flavour enormously.

After the delectable 2007s, 2008 had something to prove. Fortunately conditions proved excellent for noble rot and many delicious wines have been produced. Although a couple of the Cru Classé suffered from grey rot problems; the majority have achieved beautifully pure fruit.

Quantities are down by up to 60% on previous years, as frost damage and poor flowering limited yields early in the season. The benefit of this, however, was that it favoured greater concentration and quality in the remaining bunches from the outset.

‘It is a magnificent year in Sauternes. The wines show power, concentration, intense botrytis coupled with and balanced by finely fresh acidity.’ (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast Magazine)

How to Order

All the wines below are offered in cases of 6 instead of the more traditional 12. Although there is a slightly higher purchase cost from a few châteaux for packaging this way, we believe it makes these wines more accessible and allows customers to try several different wines without necessarily having to commit to large amounts of stock.

If you wish to purchase one of the wines listed on this site, please contact the Waitrose sales team, as soon as possible, by calling 0845 450 1592 or by e-mailing waitrosewinedirect@laywheeler.com. Be sure to include your name, post code and daytime telephone number on your e-mail. We will confirm availability by return and call you to collect your payment details.

Red Wines - The Left Bank

Château Poujeaux – Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, Moulis-en-Médoc AC

£82.50 per case of 6
Regularly one of the best-value wines in Bordeaux, Poujeaux have produced a wine of great purity and freshness in 2008. The fruit is darkly ripe, with soft blackberry and juniper notes, but with a clean seam of redcurrant acidity. Already showing complexity with spicy, meaty and tobacco notes. This should provide serious drinking pleasure from 2012-2025.

St. Estèphe

Château Phélan Ségur – Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, St. Estèphe AC

£97.50 per case of 6
60% Cabernet Sauvignon; 40% Merlot
Very successful this year. An intense, floral wine with attractive, bright, blackcurrant fruit. The tannins are ripe, but relatively high, so this will need a few years in bottle before first approach. A really fine Phélan with a lovely pure texture on the palate and well-integrated oak. Drink 2013 - 2025

Château Calon-Segur – 3ème Grand Cru Classé, St. Estèphe AC

£150 per case of 6
80% Cabernet Sauvignon; 18% Merlot; 2% Petit Verdot
The star of St. Estèphe in 2008. The 2008 is very pure and fine with ripe, floral blackcurrant notes, attractive cedary overtones and fresh acidity. As elsewhere, yields were reduced this year and an unusually high proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon was used in the blend (normally it is around 60% of the blend, this year it is 80%). Only 11,500 cases were made of the Grand Vin. The tannins are taught in youth as always, but this will blossom into a majestic wine. Drink 2014 - 2035

St. Julien

Château Langoa Barton – 3ème Cru Classé, St Julien AC

£125 per case of 6 - SOLD OUT
67% Cabernet Sauvignon; 27% Merlot; 6% Cabernet Franc
Langoa this year is very attractive, with a concentrated, plump palate of redcurrant and blackcurrant fruit. The tannins are relatively firm now, but they will soften. At this price, it’s superb value. Drink 2013 – 2030

Château Léoville Barton – 2ème Cru Classé, St Julien AC

£165 per case of 6 - SOLD OUT
75% Cabernet Sauvignon; 23% Merlot; 2% Cabernet Franc
A classic. Very much in a similar mould to Langoa, this has just a shade more ripeness and concentration. Strong and full, with a great depth of blackcurrant fruit and perfumed cedarwood notes. Very tight at this stage, but this will start to blossom in around 5 years. The Barton family has run this 2nd Growth since 1826 and Anthony Barton continues his reasonable pricing policy, making this yet again one of the best-value Clarets of the vintage. Drink 2014 – 2033

Pauillac

Château Haut-Batailley – 5ème Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac AC

£110 per case of 6
66% Cabernet Sauvignon; 32% Merlot; 2% Cabernet Franc
Really trumped many of the other Pauillac 5th Growths this year, including the reliable Batailley and Grand-Puy-Lacoste. This is an attractive, ripe and supple wine with sweet black fruit. The style is fresh and relatively forward with a charming suppleness of texture. A great wine for earlier drinking. Drink 2012 - 2022

Château Lynch-Bages – 5ème Cru Classé, Pauillac AC

£190 per case of 6
78% Cabernet Sauvignon; 13% Merlot; 7% Cabernet Franc; 2% Petit Verdot
A wine of serious power and concentration, with huge fruit, balanced by substantial oak and great acidity. Needs 5-10 years before approach. This is the most intense wine of the commune and should develop into a great wine. Drink 2014 - 2035

Château Pichon-Longueville, Comtesse de Lalande – 2ème Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac AC

"Of all the top-notch wines in the Haut-Médoc, none in the last generation has been so consistently exciting or beguiling as this," Oz Clarke, Bordeaux: The Wines, the Vineyards, the Winemakers

£230 per case of 6 - SOLD OUT
63% Cabernet Sauvignon; 29% Merlot; 3% Cabernet Franc; 5% Petit Verdot
This beautiful château neighbours Latour on the plateau of Pauillac. Yields were down to 42 hl/ha in 2008. This wine is always restrained at en-primeur and often overlooked, but the 2008 is a real gem. Broad, elegant and supple with fresh blackcurrant fruit and a fine length of flavour. Drink 2014 - 2035.

Château Pontet-Canet – 5ème Cru Classé, Pauillac AC

£270 per case of 6 - SOLD OUT
65% Cabernet Sauvignon; 30% Merlot; 4% Cabernet Franc; 1% Petit Verdot
Pontet-Canet’s vineyard lies next to 1st Growth Château Mouton Rothschild and this is a regular over-performer. The 2008 is a big, concentrated wine with deep black fruit and perfumed cedar oak overtones. Huge, long length of flavour and great balancing acidity. A fine effort. Drink 2012 - 2035

Château Mouton-Rothschild – 1er Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac AC

£780 per case of 6 - SOLD OUT
83% Cabernet Sauvignon; 17% Merlot
For many one of the most exciting wines of the vintage. Mouton can be dense and difficult to taste at this young stage after only a few months in barrel, but this is clearly a wine with great potential and an impressive length of flavour. Tight and brooding at the moment, this wine has a concentrated core of fruit and is already starting to reveal some delicious spice and leather notes. Drink 2018 - 2040

Château Lafite-Rothschild – 1er Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac AC

£795 per case of 6 - SOLD OUT
83% Cabernet Sauvignon; 13% Merlot; 4% Cabernet Franc
Lafite this year shows a brilliant combination of power and freshness, with a rich palate of bright berry fruit, surrounded by amazingly mouthcoating, ripe tannins. Fabulous length and potential. Drink 2016 – 2035

Margaux

Château d’Angludet – Cru Bourgeois Supérieur, Margaux AC

£75 per case of 6
48% Cabernet Sauvignon; 40% Merlot; 12% Petit Verdot
This wine really over-performs in 2008 and is the clear bargain of the commune. The palate is dense and darkly ripe, but retains lovely clean, fresh acidity. Long, rich and elegant. For Margaux, this is brooding. Drink 2012 - 2025

Château Rauzan-Segla – 2ème Grand Cru Classé, Margaux AC

£215 per case of 6
62% Cabernet Sauvignon; 38% Merlot
A really fine effort. This is the top wine of the commune in 2008 and even outshines Châteaux Margaux. The wine is dense and mouthcoating, with a ripe core of pure black fruit balanced by brilliant refreshing acidity. Elegant and very long. Drink 2014 - 2030

Red Wines - The Right Bank

Chateau Haut-Ballet – Fronsac AC

£42 per case of 6
100% Merlot
A modern-styled Bordeaux from a small 9ha vineyard. This varietal Merlot wine is very pure, soft-textured and floral, with delicate violet notes overlying a generous weight of charming blueberry fruit. 20% of the wine has been matured in new oak, which adds spice and vanilla. Good length. Only 25,000 bottles made. Drink 2010 - 2022

St Emilion

Clos la Madeleine – St Emilion Grand Cru AC

£76.50 per case of 6
75% Merlot; 25% Cabernet Franc
A small 2.2 ha vineyard in a prime spot on the slope of St Emilion. Production is tiny and only 8000 bottles were made in 2008. This deliciously rich St Emilion is floral, supple and sweetly ripe. Drink 2013 – 2026

Château Beau-Séjour Becot – 1er Grand Cru Classé, Saint Emilion AC

£165 per case of 6
70% Merlot; 20% Cabernet Sauvignon; 10% Cabernet Franc
A small, high-quality estate with beautiful vineyards on Saint Emilion’s limestone plateau and slopes. This is a big, rich St Emilion, with excellent balancing acidity and great concentration and length. Attractively ripe with a complex nose of coffee and spice notes. Relatively forward, so this will be approachable young. Drink 2013 - 2030

Château Angélus – 1er Grand Cru Classé, Saint Emilion AC

£360 per case of 6
58% Merlot; 42% Cabernet Franc
Consistently one of the finest wines on the Right Bank, winemaker Hubert de Boüard has made a very attractive, fine textured wine in 2008, with delicate cedar and violet notes on the nose. There is a relatively high proportion of Cabernet-Franc in the blend this year, which adds a lovely freshness and perfume to the ripe, soft Merlot fruit. Great length and elegance. A serious wine of First Growth quality. Drink 2015 – 2035

Pomerol and Lalande de Pomerol

Château La Fleur de Boüard – Lalande-de-Pomerol AC

£85 per case of 6
85% Merlot; 10% Cabernet Franc; 5% Cabernet Sauvignon
The wine at this château is made by Hubert de Boüard, winemaker at Château Angélus in St Emilion. This estate has proved in recent years that Lalande-de-Pomerol can make wine every bit as great as its illustrious neighbour, Pomerol. The 2008 is a big, rich, smooth Claret with dark blackberry fruit and an impressive depth of flavour. Drink 2013 – 2028

Château Petit-Village – Pomerol AC

£155 per case of 6
78% Merlot; 18% Cabernet Sauvignon; 4% Cabernet Franc
This 11ha property lies at the high point of Pomerol’s gravel plateau and has been one of the most consistent performers over the last 10 years. The 2008 is opulent and smooth-textured with moreish black fruit and floral, violet aromas overlaid by spice and coffee notes. A charming, deliciously ripe Pomerol. Drink 2013 – 2028

Château Le Bon Pasteur – Pomerol AC

£200 per case of 6
80% Merlot; 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
Described by Robert Parker as, "probably the most complete and potentially complex and concentrated Bon Pasteur ever made", the 2008 from this estate is rich, serious and darkly fruity. The Merlot achieved perfect maturity this year, but the cooler nights ensured it retained good acidity - the result is a great Pomerol which manages to combine exceptional concentration with vigour and freshness. Drink 2013 - 2028

Vieux Château Certan – Pomerol AC

£240 per case of 6 - SOLD OUT
70% Merlot; 20% Cabernet Franc; 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
The incredibly modest Alexander Thienpont has once again made one of the wines of the commune. 2008 was a great year for ripening Cabernet Franc and, unusually, all of this variety has made it into the final blend for the Grand Vin. The pure, floral wine shows particularly fine aromatics and combines forward Merlot ripeness with delicious savoury notes and charry new oak flavours. Drink 2013 - 2030

Dry Whites

Château de Chantegrieve ‘Caroline’ – Graves AC

£65 per case of 6
50% Sauvignon; 50% Semillon
Château de Chantegrieve’s top cuvée is fantastic this year. This is a very attractive, broad-textured wine, and the barrel-fermentation has added complex toasty notes to the fresh, concentrated lemony fruit. Long and impressive. Drink 2011 – 2018

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc – Pessac-Léognan AC

£270 per case of 6
90% Sauvignon Blanc; 5% Sauvignon Gris; 5% Semillon
The latest ever harvest here, ending on the 3rd of October. Smith-Haut-Lafitte is one of the best whites in Bordeaux every year, and certainly does not disappoint in 2008. This is a superb wine of great finesse, which manages to seamlessly combine a lovely, broad, honeyed richness and smokiness, with delicate, zesty nectarine and lemon fruit. Very pure and long. Daniel and Florence Cathiard, owners of the property since 1990, have worked very hard in the vineyard - using organic cultivation, low yields and severe selection - to deliver this exceptional level of quality. Drink 2012 - 2025

Sweet Whites - Sauternes

Château Bastor Lamontagne – Sauternes AC

£73.50 per case of 6
Perennially the best value wine in Sauternes and better than many Cru Classé this year. The excellent 2008 combines a real delicacy and fineness of texture, with a rich intensity of flavour. Beautifully pure and elegant with delicious ripe apricot, peach and lemon fruit. Drink 2011 - 2030

Château de Malle – 2ème Grand Cru Classé, Sauternes AC

£120 per case of 6
78% Semillon; 20% Sauvignon; 2% Muscadelle
Château de Malle is unquestionably one of the most beautiful properties in Bordeaux and in 2008 they have made a wine to match. This is a plush, upfront and very fruity style with glorious apricot, grapefruit and barley-sugar notes. Delicate, vibrant and very long. Drink 2013 - 2035.

Château Coutet – Premier Grand Cru Classé, Sauternes AC

£185 per case of 6
Sumptuous. One of the greatest Coutets of the last 10 years. This is fine, delicate and concentrated with complex flavours of white truffles, apricot blossom and honey. Huge, long-threaded finish. Drink 2013 - 2040

Château Rieussec – Premier Grand Cru Classé, Sauternes AC

£225 per case of 6
86% Semillon; 12% Sauvignon Blanc; 2% Muscadelle
Phenomenal’ was the first word that came to mind tasting this. Rieussec combines incredible delicacy, with huge sweetness, concentration and power. This is very impressive in its youth - with deliciously pure, vibrant flavours of apricot and lemon shortbread - and has serious potential for the future. Yields were very low this year and further selection in the vineyard was fastidious, with 6 ‘tries’ (or separate hand harvesting passes through the vineyard) between the 26th of September and the 14th of November. Drink 2014 – 2045

Château d’Yquem – Premier Grand Cru Classé Supérieur, Sauternes AC

£975 per case of 6
80% Semillon; 20% Sauvignon
Selection is incredibly severe at Yquem and this famous estate therefore manages to produce wines which are consistently excellent. The Yquem ’08 is very much on form: the wine has a deliciously pure noble rot character and a very impressive concentration, finesse and perfectly-balanced structure on the palate. The acidity is particularly fine this year, which should give it serious ageing potential. Drink 2015 - 2050

How our En Primeur service works

We offer you the chance to buy these wines while they are still maturing in the barrel. Once the wines have been bottled and shipped they can be delivered direct to your door, or stored for you in ideal conditions until you are ready to take delivery.

Many of our wines are available only in very limited quantities. Orders will be accepted on a first-come-first-served basis, and the most sought-after may be restricted to one case per customer.

Paying for your wines

First payment:
The prices include shipping charges and insurance, the invoice will state your wine as net of duty and VAT. Prices are valid until June 30th 2009. Once we have received your payment, we will send you an invoice as proof of purchase. Payment can be made by cheque, Mastercard, Visa Partnership Card* or Maestro. Please make cheques payable to Lay & Wheeler Ltd, Holton Park, Holton St Mary, CO7 6NN, England.

Second payment:
This payment becomes due when your wines are delivered to you. It covers the cost of excise duty at the time of shipment, delivery within the UK, and VAT (duty and VAT may vary) on these costs and on the original purchase price of your wine.**

Shipping and delivery

The Waitrose En Primeur service is run in association with Lay & Wheeler, who will process your order, ship the wines on your behalf and invoice the duty and VAT when you take delivery. The 2008 Bordeaux will be shipped from Summer 2011. We will contact you to confirm delivery instructions when your wines arrive in the UK and you will be advised of the delivery charges. Prices vary according to the number of cases and the delivery service required. For more information, please contact the Waitrose En Primeur Service.

Cellarage

En Primeur wines will be shipped to the Vinothèque bonded warehouse in Burton-on-Trent. If you would like your wines to be stored for you, please contact the Waitrose En Primeur Service. Our associates at Lay & Wheeler are experts in fine wine cellarage and will set up a customer reserves account for you. These wines will remain in Vinothèque’s bonded cellars until Lay & Wheeler receive further instruction. Any cases stored on your behalf will be subject to Lay & Wheeler’s competitive cellarage charges as part of their Portfolio service. Please see the terms and conditions of Lay & Wheelers Portfolio Service on www.laywheeler.com.

Right of Withdrawal and Substitutions

Customers have a seven day right of withdrawal from mail order contracts after the first payment. Notice of cancellation must be given in writing and will be effective upon receipt at Lay & Wheeler’s registered office. Please note that in the event of a cancelled order a charge may be levied to cover the cost of collecting goods. If, for any reason beyond the control of Lay & Wheeler, the originally selected products cannot be supplied, Lay & Wheeler will suggest alternative products. Please direct any correspondence to the address above.

* Payments will count as a Non-Partnership sale
** The wines remain the property of Lay & Wheeler Ltd until all invoices and outstanding charges are settled.

To order
Orders must be for a minimum of one case (6x75cl bottles, unless otherwise stated).
Last orders by 30th June 2009
Call 0845 450 1592 (Monday to Friday 8.30am to 5.30pm).
E-mail: waitrosewinedirect@laywheeler.com