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Bordeaux Wine Buying Guide

Bordeaux is regarded as the world capital of wine, famous for producing fine wines for many centuries. It’s renowned for deep, velvety reds (known by the British as claret); elegant, dry whites; and deliciously sweet dessert wines. Over 120,000 hectares of vines are planted, more than the whole of Australia.

“He who aspires to be a serious wine drinker, must drink Claret"
Samuel Johnson (1709 – 1784)

The region is full of diversity. Numerous microclimates and soil types provide variation from one area to the next; the influence of the weather can vary from year to year; and wines are classified in different ways depending on vineyard location and quality.

Most Bordeaux wines are a blend of more than one grape variety, with the composition of the blend depending on the area within the Bordeaux region and the preference of the producer. Over 80% of production is red wine.

With thousands of wines to choose from it can be a minefield. Waitrose has made it easier, as our wine buyer for the Bordeaux region, Justin Howard-Sneyd MW (Master of Wine), has used his knowledge and experience to offer a selection from this region that’s all about quality, choice and value.

We’ve divided this magical region into areas, classifications, blends and grape varieties.

Bordeaux by Area
Bordeaux by Classification
Bordeaux by Variety
Bordeaux by Vintage
Selected Bordeaux Wine
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Bordeaux by Area

The region is dominated by the city of Bordeaux and two rivers, Garonne and Dordogne, which merge to form the Gironde, which then flows out into the Atlantic Ocean. The vineyards can be divided into key areas:

The Médoc is situated on the left bank of the Gironde and grows almost entirely red grapes. It’s generally very flat, with the architecture of the numerous châteaux adding a magical touch to the scenery. It’s around 80 kilometres long and runs north from the outskirts of the city towards the town of Lesparre-Médoc, where Calvet’s Réserve de L'Estey is produced.

The soil in the Médoc is typically gravelly and well-drained, with layers of sand deeper down. Its proximity to the coast and the influence of the Gulf Stream provide long, warm summers and cool, wet winters. Longer hours of sunshine also help the grapes to ripen. The soil type and climate provide near-perfect conditions to grow Cabernet Sauvignon.

Across the river, the ‘right bank’ also produces predominantly red wine, and is the location of well-known communes like Pomerol and Saint-Émilion. It’s less affected by the maritime climate, experiencing warmer, drier summers and cooler winters than the Médoc. The soil has a greater amount of clay, and this suits Merlot perfectly, producing rich wines such as Saint-Émilion Barrel Select Dourthe. There are gravelly outcrops, and Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon are usually planted here.

The areas of Graves and Pessac-Léognan are immediately south of the city of Bordeaux, where there is gravel in the soil, hence the name of Graves. Cabernet Sauvignon is planted on the gravelly soil, with more Merlot planted further south where the soil is sand, clay and limestone. The temperature is warmer than the Médoc and the grapes tend to ripen earlier.

Just over a quarter of Graves is planted with white grapes, mainly Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. The soil suits these varieties, though it’s only in the last 20 years that modernisation and a will to improve has seen the full potential realised. The influence of technology and winemakers from the New World is increasing; Merchants Bay Sauvignon / Sémillon is a typical example.

Further south, the vineyards of Sauternes have a microclimate all of their own. During the early autumn, the vineyards are cloaked in mist rising from the nearby River Garonne. The damp atmosphere and then the humidity, when the sun breaks through, combine to help the ripe Sémillon grapes develop ‘noble rot’ (botrytis), enabling the sugar in the grape to concentrate and produce luscious, sweet wines.

The Côtes de Castillon lies about 60 kilometres east of the city and only produces reds. ‘Côtes’ translates as ‘slopes’, reflecting the undulating landscape. Of particular note is the amount of investment being pumped into this area, so it’s certainly an area to watch. Château d’Aiguilhe is a typical example; it’s now owned by Stephan de Neipperg, owner of an esteemed estate in St-Emilion, and his multi-million pound investment is reaping rewards with the quality of his ‘second wine’, Seigneurs d'Aiguilhe Côtes de Castillon, which is a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc.

The Côtes de Blaye is just a few miles across the river from the best vineyards in the Médoc, yet the climate is markedly different. The higher ground is more exposed to wind and rain, and only 15% of the agricultural land is planted with vines. However, this area is underrated by many and there are hidden gems, including Château Segonzac Premières Côtes de Blaye, a blend of Merlot and Malbec, whose vines are located on one of the very best si

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Bordeaux by Classification

French quality wine produced in a specified region is called Appellation Controlée (AC). Wine produced within the Bordeaux region will be labelled as ‘Bordeaux AC’. A similar wine but with a higher minimum level of alcohol may be designated ‘Bordeaux Supérieur AC’. Some more specific areas may have a specified district AC, such as Haut-Médoc. And individual villages or communes, like Sauternes, may have their own Appellation.

Over 150 years ago, the 1855 Classification identified the top red wines from the Médoc (as well as one from Graves and some sweet white wines from Sauternes and Barsac). They were classified into five divisions, from Premier Cru Classé (First Growth) to Cinquième Cru Classé (Fifth Growth). These Classed Growths are typically made to develop with age, though many châteaux produce a ‘second wine’ which can be enjoyed sooner - Chevalier de Lascombes is the second wine of Château Lascombes, a Second Growth.

In the 1950s, Graves and Saint-Emilion classified their best wines, with the latter allowing for a review every ten years. Pomerol, one of Bordeaux's greatest assets, remains unclassified to this day. The Médoc and Haut-Médoc districts also have a Cru Bourgeois classification. This sits below the five Classed Growths and encompasses over 400 of the next best properties in their area, including the up-and-coming Château Cambon La Pelouse Haut-Médoc , which has seen great investment since 1996.

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Bordeaux by Variety

Cabernet Sauvignon

A deep red colour and a strong tannic structure, thanks to its thicker skins and larger pips. Its flavours take longer to mature but develop into blackcurrant and black cherry, with hints of cedar wood, cigars and mint.

Merlot

Easier to grow and ripen, it produces higher yields and alcohol levels. It’s a softer grape with thinner skins, and makes succulent, juicy wines often referred to as ‘jammy’ and reminiscent of plums or damsons.

Cabernet Franc

Lighter bodied, with a perfumed nose and hints of red fruit, adding a little freshness and youth.

Malbec

A dark red grape which is richly flavoured, adding colour and body to the blend.

Petit Verdot

Notoriously tricky to grow but will ripen late, spreading the workload of the harvest over a longer period. It will add perfume, colour and tannin to a blend.

Sémillon

Identifiable by aromas of apricots and peaches, it produces soft, slightly oily or waxy wines, and is susceptible to noble rot, ideal for making dessert wines.

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Bordeaux by Blend

Red Bordeaux is typically made from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Virtually all wines are a blend of two or three of these varieties, with a small percentage of Malbec or Petit Verdot also permitted. The composition of the blend will be governed to a large degree by the producer’s vineyard locations, as varieties grow better in some locations than others.

The bottle label will rarely state the varieties or the percentages of each in the blend. As a general rule, the ‘left bank’ blends are mainly Cabernet Sauvignon while the ‘right bank’ is mainly Merlot. The most important white grape variety is Sémillon. Varying percentages of Sauvignon Blanc may be added, depending on the blend required, and there may be a tiny amount of Muscadelle too.

A long-standing role is that of the négociant, who will source grapes from more than one location and achieve a consistent blend year in, year out. Maison Sichel have been making wine in this way since 1883, and their most popular label is Sirius, available as Blanc.

Claret is a traditional match for red meat dishes. If the blend is Cabernet-dominated, such as Calvet Reserve, it will be a perfect accompaniment to roast beef or English hard cheeses. Merlot-based blends like the Waitrose Bordeaux Reserve is great with grilled steaks or sausages. With or without food, claret should be served at 16°C-18°C.

For a wine to go with lighter food, look no further than white Bordeaux. Chateau Tour Léognan, Pessac-Léognan is a cracking wine for the price – its blend of 65% Sémillon and 35% Sauvignon Blanc is perfect to accompany fish. For a wine to enjoy with salads, try Calvet’s excellent value Limited Release Sauvignon Blanc or the modern Dourthe No1 Sauvignon Blanc . Serve them chilled, at 6°C-8°C.

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Bordeaux by Vintage

The majority of inexpensive red wine is intended to be drunk within two years (whites within 6-12 months). However, most fine wine will improve with age when stored correctly. There will be variations from vintage to vintage, largely depending on the weather during the course of that year. Even when the weather is less favourable, winemaking experience and technology has advanced to be able to continue making good wine.

Claret – year by year

1961 Regarded by many as the best vintage of the 20th Century
1988
1989
1990
Excellent years – the wine is drinking now but can be kept longer
2000 The best vintage in ten years – can be drunk now but will improve
2001 A variable vintage that was generally better on the right bank
2002 Often underrated, this year provides excellent value from the best wines
2003 A very hot year provided riper fruit and earlier drinking clarets
2004 A late growing season has led to youthful wines. Better on the left bank
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Selected Bordeaux Wine

view Merchants Bay Merlot / Cabernet Sauvignon view Waitrose Bordeaux Reserve view Calvet Reserve, Bordeaux view Médoc, Réserve de L
Merchants Bay Sauvignon / Sémillon 2006 Bordeaux   Waitrose Bordeaux Reserve   Calvet Réserve Organic 2005 Bordeaux, France   Médoc, Réserve de L'Estey Calvet, Bordeaux
Stylish, modern white from the traditional region of Bordeaux.   Reliable claret with a bouquet of red fruits from the Merlot and Cabernet grapes.   An intense and fruity red made from organically grown grapes.   A really classic left bank claret with plenty of cedar flavours and elegant blackcurrant fruit.
view Saint-Emilion Barrel Select Dourthe, Bordeaux view Château Cambon La Pelouse Haut-Médoc, Bordeau view Chevalier de Lascombes Margaux, Bordeaux view Château Laroque Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, Bord
Saint-Emilion Barrel Select Dourthe, Bordeaux   Château Cambon La Pelouse Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux   Chevalier de Lascombes Margaux, Bordeaux   Château Laroque Saint-Émilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux
A traditionally made, rich Saint-Emilion made from 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon.   A fine wine with Cru Bourgeois status, hugely benefiting from recent vineyard investment.   An elegant claret that’s the second wine of Château Lascombes. Exclusive to Waitrose. Drink 2006-2009.   Superb concentration of rich, fragrant fruit. Decant and serve with roasts, game or full-flavoured cheeses.
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