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California Wine Buying Guide

As the sun sets and early evening approaches California’s wine country, cool sea breezes sweep the rolling hills and fogs begin to cover the vineyards. This temperate climate with long, warm sunny days and nights of cooling sea breezes and fog make California ideal for growing grapes. The warm sun produces grapes with rich, fruity flavours and the cooling fog helps grapes retain that all-important acidity, producing wines that are excitingly fruity, yet fresh and crisp.

California produces about 90% of all wine in the United States, with much thanks to its excellent climatic conditions for growing grapes. The vineyards are scattered throughout the state yet the most famous areas, such as Napa and Sonoma Valleys, are located in the northern part near the coast around San Francisco. Here the cooling influence of the ocean and the warmth from nearby valleys produce a near-perfect climate for wine production, suiting a range of grape varieties.

A rocky road to success
California v France
A taste of the Golden state
The natural way – Bonterra
Flying High – Cycles Gladiator
Fusion Food
california coastline
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A rocky road to success

California’s winemaking history dates back to the late 1700s when Spanish missionaries first introduced the art of winemaking to the region. However, there has been a rocky road from the basic wines produced 250 years ago to today’s top-notch quality wines.

The gold rush in the 1850s spurred California’s wine production as the state became increasingly populated and commercialised. Simultaneously, the US government realised California’s potential for wine making and the potential income, hence a viticultural commission to help California’s wine industry was set up. Similarly, a wine and research institute was initiated in 1880 to provide the growers and winemakers with relevant research in order to increase quality and production.

However, the prohibition of alcoholic beverages in the 1930s took its toll on the emerging Californian wine industry, particularly its small producers. Afterwards, the post-prohibitions saw an industry focusing on sweet wine and French imitations such as Californian Chablis. It wasn’t until the 1970s that California begun to seriously produce its ‘own’ styles of wine and the Judgment of Paris tasting (see panel) in 1976 became a watershed for fine Californian wines.

‘Our winemaking and grape growing in the modern era (post prohibition) is only 40 years old and whereas we have made great strides in that time, the best of this [Napa] Valley is what lies ahead in the generations of winemakers that have yet to be born’ - Jonah Beer, Frog’s Leap Winery

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California v France

Just over 30 years ago one of the wine industries most acclaimed personalities, Steven Spurrier, decided to test precisely how good Californian wine was. The result was the now infamous ‘Judgment of Paris’ tasting – where Bordeaux’s finest clarets and Burgundy’s finest whites went head to head with California’s best Cabernets and Chardonnays. The outcome? California won the blind tasting and firmly placed itself on the map as a serious producer of fine wine.

Last year, Steven Spurrier decided to re-enact the tasting and with some surprise, although not as much as in 1976, California won again. This time though, the world of wine had grown accustomed to the high-quality wines produced in California – it is the fourth largest wine producer in the world and UK is its number one export market.

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A taste of the Golden state

Almost 100 grape varieties are planted in California and the majority is red – much in line with market demand. Most of the land is dedicated to Cabernet Sauvignon although Pinot Noir and Syrah/Shiraz have become increasingly important and plantings of both grape varieties have increased by over 50% in the last five years. Similarly, Chardonnay is the most widely planted white grape but plantings of the trendy Pinot Grigio grape have increased by 480% in the last 5 years; Sauvignon Blanc is at the forefront too. It’s time to enjoy a taste of the Golden state…

Cabernet Sauvignon

Probably the most acclaimed grape variety in California and constantly compared to Bordeaux. California produces a rich, fruit-forward style full of dark fruits and blackcurrants. The tannins can be quite firm and some of California’s Cabernets last for more than 20 years. Not so long-lived, but lively and fruity is the Fetzer Valley Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon an ideal wine for those mesquite chargrilled burgers and steaks!

Merlot

After the film Sideways in 2004 when the main character Miles claimed a disgust with the grape variety and a love for Pinot Noir, Merlot has had a bit of hard time. However, if the soft and rich currant and cherry flavours of this grape variety suits your palate, it’s worth sticking to, particularly if you are a fan of Mexican cuisine – Californian Merlot goes brilliantly with it! Why not try the organic, seriously delicious and plummy Bonterra Merlot for a taste of this grape variety.

Pinot Noir

Although this grape variety has been planted in California since 1885 it’s only more recently that it has started to claim commercial success. The problem, as always with Pinot Noir, is that it’s hard to grow and it’s very picky about climatic conditions. In California, Pinot Noir produces a delicate wine with flavours of summer berries and sometimes, particularly as the wine ages, savoury and ‘gamey’ notes. Miles from the movie Sideways fell in love with Californian Pinot Noir because, “its flavours, they're just the most haunting and brilliant and thrilling and subtle and... ancient on the planet”. To get a taste of what Miles meant try the La Crema Pinot Noir

Zinfandel

This grape variety comes in a variety of different forms and shapes from off-dry rosé to full bodied reds. It is in fact the same variety as Primitivo – an Italian grape producing rich and juicy reds. Zinfandel as a red wine is absolutely fantastic – spicy, aromatic and fruity. Why not try the Ravenswood Zinfandel

“The flavour of the wine captures the ripe berry, spicy, full bodied character that is the essence of California Zinfandel”, Joel Peterson, founder of Ravenswood.

Syrah/Shiraz

This grape variety does brilliantly in the warm Californian climate! Big, bold and quite robust, it takes on very masculine characteristics as the Leaping Horse Vineyards Shiraz brilliantly displays. This wine shows typical dark plummy fruit and spicy, smoky notes - an excellent match to meaty burritos.

Cabernet Franc

Most often found in France’s Loire Valley, Cabernet Franc takes on slightly different characteristic when grown in California. It has less of the greenness of its Loire cousins and tends to be riper, with spicy notes and a fuller palate. Try the Ironstone Vineyards Cabernet Franc to get a taste of an excellent ‘warmer climate’ Cabernet Franc that’s a brilliant match with spicy sausages.

Chardonnay

Californian Chardonnay had a reputation of being oaky, buttery and quite a mouthful to some people’s tastes. However, being keen trend followers, Californian Chardonnay has moved on and now wines are slightly more restrained, still buttery with a good weighty texture but a bit more refined and elegant. For a full-on wine with butterscotch flavours, try the Wente Chardonnay. It craves food, so try it with a creamy, chicken-laden Caesar salad for a great match.

Pinot Grigio

As the world craves more of this popular variety, the Americans plant it. And it’s good; round and fresh with great citrussy, apple and pear fruit flavours. Try the Cycles Gladiator Pinot Grigio - an excellent ‘sipping’ wine and great partner to a platter of seafood.

Sauvignon Blanc

One of the world’s most popular grape varieties and although California may not be that famous for it, they have been making it for the past 100 years. Crisp and fresh with green apple and citrus flavours it makes a wonderful accompaniment to fish dishes. Try the Fetzer Valley Oaks Sauvignon Blanc.
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The natural way – Bonterra

Each morning, as the mist and fogs begin to disperse from Bonterra’s vineyards, a mobile troop of chickens move in. They are sent into the vineyards to pick out weeds and feed off worms and insects that are damaging to vines and grapes. Chickens are an important aspect of Bonterra’s organic farming principles as they provide a ‘natural’ approach to pest control – and they add a bit of natural fertiliser as they move a long.

Bonterra prides itself on adopting an ‘old world style of farming’, which in today’s world translates into organic. There is nothing old about their wines though: there is the lusciously rich, baked apple and lemony Chardonnay; the silky-smooth and plummy Merlot; and the raspberry scented and cake-spice flavoured Zinfandel. If this is what chickens do to wine, we would like to see more of them!

“Each varietal is a unique, individual expression of organically grown fruit in the place it was planted and the winemaker’s art” – James Caudill, Bonterra wines.

Flying High – Cycles Gladiator

The nymph riding her bicycle on the label is almost enough in itself for this wine to become a hit on the dinner table. The painting was made by French painter G. Massias in 1895 during the quite happy and innovative times of the ‘Belle Epoque’ era in Europe.

Similarly, Cycles Gladiator wines are great examples of the modern and trendy Californian winemaking. Melon, citrus and honey flavours mingle in the expressive Pinot Grigio, which has had a bit of Riesling added to it for an extra aromatic kick. The cool-climate Merlot is rich and lush with cherry fruit flavours, a bit of a grip and great length. So if the nymph isn’t enough to start a dinner conversation – the wine inside is sure to!

‘California as a whole is influenced by the Pacific ocean. Our weather is considerably more consistent than most growing regions. We can almost always count on sunny days, and our diurnal [daily temperature] swings are a bit more extreme, providing for much riper flavours than most other regions.’ – Adam LaZarre, Cycles Gladiator

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Fusion Food

The distinct styles of Californian wine require a bit of thought when it comes to food matching. Although the diversity of wine styles allows for quite a few food matches it’s always a good idea to consider what the locals eat. Influenced by Mexico, Cuba, Asia and the Mediterranean, Californian cuisine is a bit of a mixture of it all. Hence the name ‘fusion food’; big, juicy, mesquite chargrilled steaks are great with Californian Cabernet Sauvignon; Mexican cuisine such as burritos, tacos, and hearty bean dishes are great matches to Californian Zinfandel and Merlot; and spicy chicken wings and spare ribs are good with Syrah/Shiraz.

Californian Chardonnay shows its best when matched with creamy salads and rich poultry and fish dishes. The lighter styles of Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc do well with Asian and Mediterranean flavours as well as seafood and fish – from sushi to scampi. In the end its all about experimentation and diversity – attributes that fit Californian winemakers very well.

view Duckhorn Vineyards Napa Valley Merlot, Califo view Fetzer Valley Oaks Syrah Rosé view Bonterra Chardonnay, Mendocino view Quartet Roederer Estate Brut Non Vintage Ande
Duckhorn Vineyards Napa Valley Merlot   Fetzer Valley Oaks Syrah Rosé   Bonterra Chardonnay, Mendocino   Quartet Roederer Estate Brut Non Vintage Anderson Valley
Made in the style of a good Bordeaux Saint-Émilion, but with more sweet fruit from the hot sun of California's prestige wine-growing region. Just like a full, robust Merlot should be, with supple tannins and lovely, integrated oak.   This lovely rich and dark cherry-coloured wine is made from Syrah and expresses exuberant red-berry flavours. It is refreshing, with a touch of natural sweetness to give a round, soft palate – excellent with salads or white meats.   A delicious barrel-fermented, organic Chardonnay from Mendocino County. Elegant and flavourful, the tropical fruit and creamy mouth-feel of this Chardonnay is joined by a clean citrus zestiness. Try with sautéed seafood or chicken dishes.   This sparkling wine hails from California and benefits from a similar cool climate to Champagne. There are four distinct vineyards on the estate - hence the name Quartet - from which all the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes are sourced. The wine has good depth, delicate bubbles and lovely fruit flavours.
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